*Vintage LLOYD, Germany, “Goiser” Full Brogue Budapester, Circa 1980:44D/E
Size: 44-44.5 [US.10.5-11] [UK 9.5-10}
Styles: Brogues, Budapesters, Derbys, Exotic Leathers, Norwegians
Goiser Plaited Double Sole
Full Wing-Tip Derby Brogue
Unlike some of the other Central European shoemakers who have gravitated slowly toward the English styles of last (Liest), Lloyd has held largely to the traditional tall and rounded Budapester toe-box, the form that, one can safely say, defines the Hungarian-Austrian-German style of the last 100 years. Today one sees the influence of the sleeker English and Italian styles, the chiseled or pointed toes, the lower profile single soles, even the unfortunate Blake Stitched or glued shoes, on European shoemakers, who, after all, cater to a far larger market abroad than at home. Thus it is a pleasure to find a shoe like the one shown here, which, dating from the 1980 or somewhat earlier, adheres to the old tradition and its characteristic Central European toe-box and massive oak-tanned “Goiser” hand-sewn double sole. Nice decorative sewing at the fixing points of the quarters too (picture # 9).
Goiser/Norweger Contruction: This experienced collector will appreciate that this is a genuine triple sole Norwegian (or Goiser) construction -notice the double line of sewing around the 360 degree welt. Both the welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn to the street sole. The term “Norwegian” is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the “Split-Toe Norwegian” with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, as shown here. This is the most complex of all shoe construction techniques and the very few such shoes are produced in the world. The term “Goiser” is derived from Bad Goisern in the Salzkammergut region of Austria. This construction was once commonly found in hand-made all-purpose mountain shoes worn in that region of the Alps and was intended to prevent water from entering through the seams.
What we have here is hand sewning using a technique long out of practice and made at the original client’s request from an especially soft Goatskin, a leather which promises to be unusually comfortable and is known for its water-resistant properties.
Goatskin, traditionally spoken of as Morocco leather or Kidskin, is used for making fine gloves –the Kid gloves of the Victorian era, still made today- shoes & boots and a variety of accessories and is prized for it softness and surprising durability. Shoes made of Kidskin are know for their superior accommodation to problem or irregular shaped feet. Of course they are a pleasure for any feet.
Size Details:44D/E....10.5D/E US.....9.5 E/F UK, for the medium to somewhat wider foot.
Excellent, re-soled and re-heeled and lightly worn since.