*Very Fine – BESPOKE OLIVER MOORE “Tuczek” Style, Gusseted, Full Brogue Spectator Loafer: 42D (US 9D)
Size: 42-42.5 [US.9-9.5] [UK 8-8.5]
Styles: Brogues, Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Custom-Bespoke-Maas, Loafers, Spectators
9 East 46th Street, New York, New Work
Bespoke – Custom Made
“Tuczek” Style, Gusseted, Full Brogue, Spectator Slip-on
Oliver Moore is one of the few remaining bespoke shoemakers in New York. Founded in 1878 by the eponymous Oliver Moore, the firm remained in continuous family ownership, under the direction of Elizabeth Moore, the widow of Thomas Moore, grandson of the founder, until 1986, when it was bought by Paul Moorefield. Among a long list of celebrities, President Theodore Roosevelt was a client more than 100 years ago. Further details about the firm may be found in the Vass book, Handmade Shoes for Men (Herrenschuhe, Handgearbeitet).
The late, lamented firm of Nikolaus Tuczek of #17 Clifford Street, W1, bespoke society shoemaker, is a legend in the trade among historians and collectors. There is little to compare with the dramatic lasting, the intricate detailing or the overall effect of his design, the harmony of decoration and sculptural form that distinguishes the Tuczek style.
In this present pair, taking Tuczek;s characteristic chiseled toe and elastic side gussets as a model, Oliver Moore has captured the stylistic boldness and quiet equipoise of the earlier master’s design, and done so with the greatest artistry. All in all, this is one of the most beautiful shoes ever to come across my desk in 40 years of collecting..
If ready made shoes by Oliver Moore today are $3000, https://olivermoorebootmakers.com/collections/mens-shoes, one can only imagine the price of their bespoke shoes.
Size Details:SIZE: Unmarked for size but using shoemaker’s lasts of known size, I determine that this is a generous US 9D, equally suitable, because of its slightly elongated toe, for a 9.5C. Thus a 8E-8.5D.....Continental 42D-42.5C.
The Spectator Loafer shown here is a bespoke shoe, entirely hand made. A close-up of the welt shows that it is hand sewn and "skived" (into a closed channel). This pair is near new, the sole and Dove-tail combination heels showing no appreciable wear. Sold without trees.