*TIBOR SALLAY, HUNGARY, Bespoke Cap-Toe Derby: 45D
Hand-Custom-Made Cap-Toe Derby
More than anywhere else in Europe, the fine craft of hand- and bespoke-shoemaking appears to be thriving in Hungary. Apart from the most famous names, László Vass and Heinrich Dinkelacker, many other excellent craftsmen, among them Koronya, Michael Kors, Ildikó Gál, and the maker of the present shoe, Tibor Sallay, are at work producing, in some cases, almost entirely hand-made shoes of fine quality. Some have cleaved to the traditional high and rounded “Budapester” toe-cap, the form that, one can safely say, defines the Hungarian-Austrian-South German style of the last 100 years, while others have gravitated to the more contemporary chiseled or pointed toes of English and Italian styles, and to the sleeker lower profile single soles.
In styling Sallay appears to be one of the latter; his models range from the quiet classical to the somewhat extravagantly “fashion forward”, while his workmanship, happily, never departs from the old hand-work traditions. The present shoe is a mélange of old and new, a modern quotation of an age-old classic cap-toe. The elongated front with its aggressively chiseled and artfully faceted toe-box distinguished this otherwise traditional Derby from its stayed and dusty forefathers but also from the unfortunately exaggerated long-nosed styles in evidence today, shoes more properly suited to ladies (who fly around on brooms)than to gentlemen. But I digress.
In terms of craftsmanship, the hand-work invested in the shoe is evident in the double-needle hand-stitching of the sole (in contrasting colour twine), the channeling and skiving (closing) of the channel, and in the finishing of the combination heel with brass nails. The cost of such a shoe in England or America would be staggering.
Size Details:Continental 45 D........UK 10,5 E.......US 11,5 D, for the mid-width foot
Worn a few times but shoeing no actual "wear" to heels or soles.