*Rare Hand-Made, GOISER WELT Derby, Unknown HUNGARIAN Master: 42D
€480.00SOLD to Mr. R. W., Virginia Beach
Size: 42-42.5 [US.9-9.5] [UK 8-8.5]
Styles: Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Derbys
Rare Important Historical
Plain Front Derby (Blucher)
Unknown Hungarian Master
This marvelous hand-made Derby boasts Goiser (or true Norwegian) construction, in which both the welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn (in this case by hand) to the street sole. The term “Norwegian” is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the “Split-Toe Norwegian” with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, as shown here.
The term “Goiser” is derived from Bad Goisern in the Salzkammergut region of Austria. This construction was once commonly found in hand-made all-purpose mountain shoes worn in that region of the Alps and was intended to prevent water from entering through the seams. For further waterproofing the top-leather was specially tanned and oiled, although in the case of this shoe, a lovely Scotch Grain calfskin more suitable for modern wear was used.
Little is known about this particular shoe beyond the fineness of its making, that it is of Hungary origin and the product of a master shoemaker. The full-leather lining and modest toe-box suggest a relatively modern date but the horse-shoe nailing of the sole is no longer in common practice today. Recent or antique, this is a shoe from another era of shoemaking and another “technology”, the rarely-to-be-seen-today ancestor of the great contemporary shoemakers of Munich, Vienna and Budapest. This masterwork harkens to the days and ways of the “K.und K”, the Austo-Hungarian Dual Monarchy. It is an historically important and still eminently wearable museum piece destined for the advanced collector.
Size Details:Hand marked 9 D and indeed measured out to 42 D....thus UK 8E and US 9D, for the medium width foot.
Superb! Beautifully functionable condition, showing little wear to bottoms and none to tops.