*NEW – COLE-HAAN “Fiddle Sole” One-of a Kind “Marcello” Cap-Toe Brogue Oxford: 41.5D
Size: 41-41.5 [US.8-8.5] [UK 7-7.5]
Styles: Brogues, Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Custom-Bespoke-Maas, Oxfords
“Fiddle Sole” Cap-Toe Oxford Brogue
Unlike the “Trafton” and “Werner” models with which it shared the extraordinary construction for which the line is known, the “Marcello” Cap-toe never went into production. The present shoe is a sample (and marked as such) which was shown to Cole-Haan store managers and never sold. Whatever their reaction to this variation on the earlier Wing-Tipped versions, the entire line was discontinued before this shoe could be added to it. The amount of hand work to achieve this radical design made the cost of production prohibitive, even at the final $800 price tag.
Cole-Haan’s downward trajectory has been twice arrested by the inclusion of two superior imports. First, for a short period in the 1990s, Edward Green supplied a limited number of oxfords to the New York and San Francisco stores, and n the 2000s this line of Italian shoes of extraordinary quality and beauty from an unnamed manufacturer. These immediately garnered a cult following among American collectors and were quickly sold out everywhere, in spite of their more than double Cole-Haan’s usual prices at the time. The internet still has a dozen websites showing the shoe…all of them long, long sold out.
This shoe, like the Trafton (in polished calf) or Werner (in Scotch Grain), is distinguished by a high vamp, a somewhat wider welt, a tall, almost Hungarian, toe cap, and its single most extraordinary characteristic, a visibly chiseled, small waisted “fiddle” sole. Mostly hand-made, each production pair was signed by the responsible shoemaker. Some bloggers seem to suggest that this line is surprisingly comfortable in spite of it heavy construction and formal structure. Suffice it to say it appears to be (and is reported to be) extremely durable, worth the break-in period that a new pair of these almost certainly requires.
This present pair is executed in a high-polish calf that is of a much finer quality than most polished leathers. The shoe makes an immediate impression for its dramatic lines, angular sole, high vamp and rich concentration of detail. Stylistically it harkens to the first half of the 20th century but its spectacular sole has no predecessor; that it can proudly call it own. I repeat, this pair is one of a kind.
Size Details:marked and true to US 8.5D.....European 41.5D....UK 7.5E, for the medium width foot..
New and unworn.