*Neuwertig – CROCKETT & JONES for Hugo Boss Baldessarini, Suede Full Brogue Budapester: 44D (US 10.5D)
Size: 44-44.5 [US.10.5-11] [UK 9.5-10}
Styles: Brogues, Budapesters, Derbys, Suede/Wildleder
Crockett & Jones
Hugo Boss / Braldessarini
Suede Full Brogue Budapester
Werner Baldessarini joined the Hugo Boss firm in 1975. He became head of design and a member of the executive board in 1988 and proceeded to drastically overhaul and improve the Hugo Boss product line, including commissioning shoes from Crockett & Jones, as seen here. [In 2002, Werner Baldessarini left Hugo Boss, reportedly, after learning that the company’s founder had close commercial relations with the Nazi German Government before and during WWII and had designed and produced uniforms for the Nazi Party and military. An equally credible reason for Baldessarini’s departure is reflected in the sharp decline in Hugo Boss quality in the last 20 years, the repositioning of the firm toward the mass-market, a decision that may have offended Baldessarini’s perfectionist sensibilities. Part of his arrangement upon departure was that his name no longer be attached to any but the Hugo Boss cosmetic line.
We are fortunate too have an example of the great workmanship that Baldessarini demanded of his suppliers during his tenure, in this case Crockett & Jones. The suede is an unusual deep pile suede in just the right color brown, the perfect complement to any and all tweeds, khakis, flannels and, if you are of my thinking –opinions vary- with gray or blue pin or chalk-striped suiting. This shoes has a channeled double sole (as with bespoke shoe making or the very best of ready-to-wear, and a McAffee styles dove-tailed combination heel)….all very little worn. Although predating the introduction of Crockett’s “Hand Grade” line, these shoes can be likened to it as they too employs every technique used in the making of a bespoke shoes, except for being made to standard size.
About the model: The suede Half Brogue Oxford along with the Full Brogue is the classic daytime shoe of choice in London’s “City”, financial district. Seen worn with pin-stripes, gray flannels and other business wear, they are the height of elegance and precisely in the English Taste. Naturally a lovely shoe like this in exactly the right tone of dusty-brown is a perfect complement too to your baggy tweeds, old khakis, homespun checks or ancient field jackets inherited from a departed relative. In short an ideal shoe for surveying your estates or a foray into the village for a pint with the townsfolk.
Size Details:US 10.5D......UK9.5E......Continental 44D, for the medium width foot.
Very lightly worn.