*Neuwertig – BESPOKE Unknown English Master, Suede 2-Eyelet Derby:41.5D/E
€650.00Riservato a Avv. G. P., Bologna
Size: 41-41.5 [US.8-8.5] [UK 7-7.5]
Styles: Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Custom-Bespoke-Maas, Derbys, Suede/Wildleder
Unknown English Master
Suede Plain Front 2-Eyelet Derby (Blucher)
Let me begin by saying that these are one of the loveliest shoes in the collection. They are all the more intriguing for being of unknown provenance. Obviously made to measure, hand made and the work of a master, they were bought second-hand in England and their history was, so to speak, lost in translation. The fineness of the velour-quality suede speaks of English manufacture. The 360 degree channeled and skived welt, hand sewn, confirms that these are custom-made. But it is the hand-cut (rather than pre-cut in almost every case of bespoke or ready made shoes) that suggests a small, “cottage” workshop, the sort to which Lobb and other better bespoke houses consign their commissions.
[Yes, you have understood correctly; English Lobb does not have its own workrooms but distributes it commissions to a dozen or so small workrooms dotted around the countryside. And yes, the quality of their respective product is various; in some cases stunningly beautiful, sculpted masterpieces, worth the many, many thousands they command, in other cases, well, if you cannot say something nice….. Anyway, by thankful if you get one of their better ones!]
But I digress; the present shoe, irrespective of being an orphan, is nevertheless a tour de force of elegance. Its strength is its simplicity and lack of ostentation, its delightfully old-fashioned rounded toe-box, its complete dependence for its beauty on inspired cut and perfect colour, on ideal proportion and uncomplicated two-eyelet lacing. It would be easy to date this to the mid-20th century but that an obscure shoemaker, working alone, far from the influence of modern markets might well employ traditional techniques to this very day, thus no date can be safely surmised other than from our immediate knowledge that it pre-date the turn of this century. My old clients know what I mean when I say it comes with my highest personal recommendation.
A second camera setting provided to show more detail, below.
Size Details:41.5D/E….US 9.5D/E….UK 8-8.5E/F, for the medium to somewhat wider foot.
Like new, neuwertig, perhaps worn one or twice only on pavement. Disregard the one or two dust spots in the photographs, these shoes are perfect and unblemished!