John Lobb
St. James, London
Antique, Bespoke, Spade Sole, Brogued High Vamp Slipper/Loafer
Circa 1985

Euro 780

The present shoe date from the 1980s, and like the shoes shown alongside, it is said to be from the collection of the Sir M. L., 11th Baronet of W. (details reserved for the new owner).

This is another sculpted masterpiece by this good shoemaker, the sole rounded and molded over the steel shank, the paradigm of a custom/bespoke shoe. Unlike the other two from the same source, this has a more subdued heel and, as indicated by the owner’s collection number (number “51”) written in nails in the instep, made later in history for the gentleman; I estimate circa 1985. With the passage of time, many of us require a half size larger, and this is the case here; the gentleman went from a UK 9 to a 9.5.

This is in every respect a magnificent shoe; construction, materials and lasting are on the highest order, as would be expected from Lobb. As it is, it will adorn the wardrobe of a gentleman more attached to its antiquity than the ordinary newness of every common shoe, and who prizes the personal history it brings with it, the scars of drawing room battles, the marks of crossing Sloan Square 100 times in midnight rain, the decades of nonchalance and privilege it bespeaks.

The present shoe, most closely approximates the contemporary bespoke model “Raywood” and is one in an extensive series of shoes made for this aforementioned gentleman of extreme cultivation and, no doubt, of not inconsiderable means. I have possessed only four shoes from this collection; one can only imagine the extent of the entire collection of which these formed a small part.

John Lobb bespoke shoes start at £5000 for shoes and £1000 for shoe-trees. http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/pricelist/

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The tops show a couple of trivial scratches and checking, nothing to detract from their attractiveness or serviceability. Little need be said about Lobb, except that there no comparison between this shoe and modern Lobbs, even the bespoke variety. The difference is striking. Today’s lasts are a clever compromise that obviates the need for several fittings. Shes are often delivered with no fittings…and they do fit!…well almost, anyway! But the spade soles, hourglass waists, high vamps and even something in the brogueing and pinking that cannot be defined but which somehow unmistakably enhance the whole, all these, appear to be something of an earlier era and to be seen in this magnificent example. If you have not experienced a great custom-made shoe in the old style, one that today would be in the Euro 4000 category -the fit, the feel, the cradling of the foot- here is an opportunity to do so at little cost.

John Lobb
St. James, London
Antique Bespoke “High Vamp” Cap-Toel Brogue Slipper
Circa 1985

Euro 780

Es ist müßig, das Ansehen des Hauses John Lobb zu begründen, sein guter Ruf besteht seit Generationen gleichermaßen für das Familienunternehmen in London, wie für die Pariser Niederlassung, die zu Beginn des vorigen Jahrhunderts in Paris eröffnet und 1976 von Hermès übernommen wurde. Die Firma Lobb steht weit über Church´s, Crockett & Jones, Alden, Weston usw. und gemeinsam mit Edward Green und Peal & Co sind sie in der Top-Kategorie der weltbesten Schuh-Hersteller zu finden. Konfektions-Schuhe der Firma Lobb befinden sich in der 1000 Euro Kategorie und maßgeschneiderte Schuhe erreichen sogar etwa den dreifachen Preis.

Diese wunderbare rahmengenähte Schuhform, mit ganzem Lederfutter und durchgehender „Eiche”-Ledersohle sind komplett handgefertigt. Schlagen Sie nach in Allan Flusser’s Buch “Clothes and the Man” unter John Lobb, oder in “Der Gentleman”, oder in “Herrenschuhe”, die 3 verläßlichen Lexika der klassischen Herrenmode.

Der hier präsentierte Schuh scheint aus den 80ern zu stammen und ist ein gut erhaltenes Beispiel der grossen Schuhmacher-Tradition. Es ist, unabhängig vom Preis, ein Stück Geschichte.

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