Florsheim
Bespoke
Scotch-Grain Calfskin Full Brogue Oxford
Hand-Sewn Double Sole
Goiser/Norwegian Construction
Circa 1955
Euro 1400

True Norwegian (or “Goiser”, from the Austrian mountain region of that name) construction is the most complicated construction in shoemaking, utilizing a twice-sewn “split reverse welt”, employed for it water-repellent properties. This particular Brogue is the single most intricately made shoe that I have ever seen to originate in the Florsheim workrooms in their more than a century in existence and my half-century of collecting. It may be called “one-of-a-kind” without fear of exaggeration. It is an uncontested museum-piece (were there a museum to display the greatest examples of American hand-craft). Made to measure in the 1950’s and inscribed “Mel Klein”*.

This shoe is exceptional in a number of respects even beyond the hand-sewn 360 degree Norwegian welting. See the riveted sole of which this is an early, if not the first, example. Florsheim continued to use this technique in its well-loved Imperials, albeit the rivets being positioned differently. Notice too the hand-set, horse-shoe nailing of the heel, the double cleats, and very unusual ventilated lining.

*Custom-made for the late Colonel Melvin Klein, USAF. In 1943, Colonel Klein, then a young 2nd Lt., became famous as the only survivor of a mid-air collision of two B-24 Bomber in which 17 others lost their lives. He went on to fly 35 missions over Germany and during the Korean War oversaw Air Rescue in the Pacific. He was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross. The story of his survival is quite moving: http://www.thecommunitypaper.com/archive/2010/07_29/index.php

Size Details:

Shoe Condition:

Very lightly worn, trivial wear to the armoured heel and near none to the double sole. Several small imperfections to the tops, commensurate with age.