*HOWARD & FOSTER Lizard /Suede SPECTATOR Circa 1935: US 11-11.5C

840.00

VENDU à Monsieur P. P., Suisse
  • Howard & Foster
    Cap-Toe, Half Brogue, Genuine Lizard and Suede
    Spectator
    Circa 1935
    EUR 840
    “In dieser Saison wurden mehr Two-Tone-Oxfords verkauft als je zuvor”, heisst es in einer Anzeige für ein Paar schneidige Spectators in einem Katolog von Sears, Roebuck and Co, aus den Jahren 1928/29.

    Diese Schuhe sind Goodyear welted (rahmengenäht) und von höchster Qualität. Kurz: ein gutaussehender, traditioneller und praktischer Schönwetter-Schuh für den Liebhaber und Sammler und eine Trophäe in Ihrer Garderobe. Die Schuhspitze und Details aus Eidechenleder sind in einem reichen Mahagony-Braun gehalten. Ein wirklich hübscher Frühling-Sommer und Herbstschuh, der vor allem mit Ihrer Schönwetter-Garderobe wunderbar kontrastiert.

    Die Geschichte des Two-Tone-Shoe, des Spectator oder “Co-Respondent-Shoe” stammt aus dem ausgehenden 19. Jahrhundert, als der Gentleman noch Gamaschen über seinen Schuhen trug. Eine Theorie besagt, dass die 2-farbigen Gamaschen in den Schuh selbst eingearbeitet worden sind. Der Herzog von Windsor – vielleicht der grösste Trendsetter für die Gentleman-Mode im 20. Jahrhundert – trug Spectators beim Golfen und die Oberschicht auf beiden Seiten des Atlantik nahm diese Neuerung schnell auf. (Ein Tip für den Boulvardier: die Spikes auf den Golfschuhen lassen sich für den Strassengebrauch leicht entfernen!) Fred Astaire, ein anderer grosser und berühmter Trendsetter, hat dem Spectator in einer Reihe von Filmen ‘Glamour’ verliehen und ganze Big-Bands und Bandleader, wie Count Basie und Louis Armstrong, trugen sie. Nicht zuletzt waren sie äusserst beliebt in der Gangster-Kultur der 30er.
    In jedem Fall erfreute sich der Spectator in den 20ern und 30ern grosser Popularität, die erst in den 50ern etwas nachliess. Heute geniesst der Spectator in der Garderobe des wohlhabenden, gut gekleideten Herren erneute Popularität und es gibt keinen wichtigen, modernen Schuhmacher, wie Lobb, Green, Church’s, Crockett, Alden, Allen Edmonds, (gar nicht zu sprechen von den grossen, leider nicht mehr existierenden, Firmen), die nicht wenigstens einen Spectator in Ihrem Repertoire haben.

    Der Spectator ist ein perfekter Drei-Jahreszeiten-Schuh, ideal für Khaki-Hosen, für weisse oder beige Hosen, den blauen Blazer so wie den Tweeds, Corduroys, Twills und für viele weitere Kombinationen. Ein unerlässlicher Schuh für Picknicks, die Strand-Promenade, Garten-Parties, Strassen-Cafés, zum Schaufenster-Bummel oder zum Tee mit Thomas Mann und T.S. Eliot im Hofgarten.

    ‘King or Commoner’, der Spectator ist der Schönwetter-Schuh des Gentleman.

    Versandkosten: 6,90, innerhalb Deutschlands als versichertes Paket. Verkauf ohne Schuhspanner.


    Size Details:

    44.5-45C (US 11-11.5C), (UK 10-10.5D), fuer den etwas scmaleren Fuss.

    Shoe Condition:

    Superb! Sehr leicht getragen. Einige Gebrauchsspuren an der Orginal-Sohle, beträchtlich am Orginal-Absatz.

  • Howard & Foster
    Cap-Toe, Half Brogue, Genuine Lizard and Suede
    Spectator
    Circa 1935
    EUR 840
    “More Two-Tone Oxfords were sold this season than ever before“, announces the advertisement for a dapper pair of Spectators in the Sears Roebuck & Co. catalogue from the year 1928/29.

    Certainly one of the most lovely spectators I have ever shown. Needless to say, beautifully made; hand-sewn welted spade soles over a steel shank and using the best velour suede finished in choisest small grain American Prairie Lizard skins.

    Stylistically it anticipates the elongated toe affected by today’s most modern designers without, I hasten to add, transgressing the bounds of classic proportion. The wider than usual rim of the welt shows off the contrasting hand sewing and the 7-Eyelet vamp adds to the stream-lined effect of the entire sculpture. The choice of small grain skins to decorate the shoe emphasize the fineness of detail and distinguish this masterpiece from even the very good offerings of the period. This is a shoes for the advanced collector, a wearable museum piece, most flattering to the foot, a splendid contrast to the fair-weather wardrobe and the pride of any wardrobe.

    The Howard & Foster Company, founded in the 19th century in Brockton Massachusetts was one of the most distinguished American shoemakers, specializing in the mid-20th century (but not exclusively) in golf shoes. To my knowledge, there are no sightings of the firm or their production past the 1960’s; another casualty to the influx of cheap imports that began in the 1960’s. They chose not to compromise quality or, like many other American shoemakers under duress, to become importers themselves. Howard & Foster’s largely hand-made products were naturally not competitive with the new imperatives of the market. The price of their pride was the dissolution of the firm.

    In short, a handsome, traditional, and practical warm-weather shoe for the collector and a prize addition to the wardrobe. The embossed leather Cap-Toe and trim is a rich mahogany brown, the rest in a rich velvety brown suede. A handsome Spring, Summer and Fall shoe that will provide a lovely contrast to your fair-weather wardrobe.

    To recapitulate; one of the finest spectators ever shown in this website. It only remains that it be your size; there is only this one to be had.

    Postage: US $10…Euro 6,90 innerhalb Deutschlands als versichertes Paket. Elsewhere in Europe, Euro 14,20

    The heels of this generation, when rubber, were most often provided by the O’Sullivan Rubber Company. Humphrey O’Sullivan, a printer, came upon the idea of attaching rubber to the heels of his shoes for better traction in his print shop. In the late 19th century he patented the idea and started his firm. O’Sullivan’s supplied rubber heels to many shoe manufacturers and often provided heels imprinted with the Logos of their largest customers, like Nunn-Bush, Nettleton and, as in the case, the Fleur de Lis used by Howard & Foster.

    The history of the two-tone shoe, the Spectator or Co-respondent shoe, derives from the late 1800s, when gentleman wore protective spats or gaiters over their shoes. The theory is that the look of light coloured spats against dark coloured shoes became incorporated into the shoe itself. The Duke of Windsor, perhaps the greatest trendsetter of men’s styles of the Twentieth Century, wore spectators while golfing and the privileged classes on both sides of the Atlantic quickly took up this innovation. A tip for the boulevardier; the spikes on golf shoes are easily removed for street use! Fred Astaire, another great and famous fashion plate added glamour to the Spectator in a series of films, and no sub-culture was more a clientele of the Spectator than the dandified gangster culture of the ’30s. In any case, the Spectator enjoyed wide popularity in the 1920’s and 1930’s, which only dwindled in the 1950’s. Today, the Spectator enjoys renewed popularity in the wardrobe of the affluent, well-dressed man and every important modern shoemaker, Lobb, Green, Church’s, Crockett, Alden, Allen Edmonds, not to mention the great lamented by-gone firms, presents at least one Spectator shoe in its repertoire. The Spectator is a perfect three-season shoe, ideal with your khaki, tan, white or beige trousers, blue or tweed blazers and so many other combinations. An indispensable shoe for picnics, the boardwalk (Strandsteg), Summer parties, outdoor cafés, window shopping in town, or when taking High Tea with Herr Mann and Mr. T.S.Eliot in the Hofgarten.


    Size Details:

    US 11-11.5C..... (UK 10-10,5D)....... (European 44.5-45C) for the somewaht narrower foot.

    Shoe Condition:

    Superb! Showing little wear to original sole and original heel.

Article Number: 1206215-1 Category:

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