*H. DINKELACKER, Hungary, Bespoke “Goiser” Full Brogue Budapester, Circa 1970:41-41.5D
Size: 41-41.5 [US.8-8.5] [UK 7-7.5]
Styles: Brogues, Budapesters, Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Custom-Bespoke-Maas, Derbys
Goiser Plaited Triple Sole
Full Wing-Tip Derby Brogue
Even more than other Hungarian shoemakers like Koronya, László Vass, Michael Kors, Ildikó Gál and others, Heinrich Dinkelacker’s main market today is in Germany. Unlike some of the other shoemakers who have gravitated slowly toward the English styles of last (Liest), Dinklacker has held to the traditional tall and rounded Budapester toe-box, the form that, one can safely say, defines the Hungarian-Austrian-South German style of the last 100 years. Today one sees the influence of the sleeker English and Italian styles, the chiseled or pointed toes, the lower profile single soles, even the unfortunate Blake Stitched or glued shoes, on Hungary’s shoemakers, who, after all, cater to a far larger market abroad than at home. Thus it is a pleasure to find a shoe like the one shown here, which, dating from the 1970 or somewhat earlier, adheres to the old tradition and its characteristic Central European toe-box and massive oak-tanned “Goiser” hand-sewn double sole.
Goiser/Norweger Contruction: This experienced collector will appreciate that this is a genuine triple sole Norwegian (or Goiser) construction -notice the double line of sewing around the 360 degree welt. Both the welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn to the street sole. The term “Norwegian” is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the “Split-Toe Norwegian” with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, as shown here. This is the most complex of all shoe construction techniques and the very few such shoes are produced in the world. The term “Goiser” is derived from Bad Goisern in the Salzkammergut region of Austria. This construction was once commonly found in hand-made all-purpose mountain shoes worn in that region of the Alps and was intended to prevent water from entering through the seams.
What we have here is a bespoke-custom made shoe, hand sewn using a technique long out of practice and made at the original client’s request from an especially soft calfskin, a leather which promises to be unusually comfortable. Other details of the construction (canvas fore-lining) suggest an earlier manufacture, 1970s or earlier. The most singular feature of this shoe is the 360 degree braided plating outside of the storm welt. I have seen no more prominent example of this decoration, even among Dinkelacker’s work.
Ready-made Dinkelacker shoes are Euro 749 today, and well over a Euro 1000 for their custom ordered variety as shown here.
Size Details:41-41.5D....US 8-8.5D....UK 7.5E, for the medium width foot.
Excellent with newly added thin rubber sole protectors and full rubber heels.