*Fine – Bespoke SAINT CRISPIN Spade Sole GHILLIE Chukka Boot: 42.5D
Size: 42-42.5 [US.9-9.5] [UK 8-8.5]
Styles: Boots/Stiefel, Chukka Boots, Collectors Shoes/Object d'Art, Custom-Bespoke-Maas, Derbys
Spade Sole Ghillie Chukka Boot
Saint Crispin’s, in Brasov, Romania, began making hand made, bespoke shoes in 1985. It remains one the smallest shoe manufacture in the world, producing only 1500 pairs per year. What distinguishes this shoemaker is that all its shoes, ready made or bespoke, are hand lasted, hand welted and hand sewn. Moreover, unlike most manufacturers who receive leather from the tanners already dyed, Saint Crispin start with natural-coloured crust leathers, and dyes them individually, and only after the leather has been cut into the shoe’s component parts. These individually stained leathers achieve a lovely patina far more quickly than tannery vat-dyed leathers.
In spite of their proximity to the Vienna-Budapest-Munich Axis of shoemakers, Saint Crispin’s styles tend more toward the English tradition, even as their lasts vary between a standard shape comparable to Edward Green’s traditional 202 last and a dramatic narrow-wasted spade sole, very much their own. Since most of their shoes are semi-bespoke, single client orders, lasts vary according to the client’s wishes, and the amount of hand work in each shoe produces not only a more supportive, closer fit but a more flattering stream-lined waist too.
Saint Crispin takes its name from Saints Crispin and Crispinian, twins, the Christian patron saints of cobblers, curriers, tanners, and leather workers. Those unfortunates were beheaded in the 3rd century during the reign of Diocletian, The date of their execution is thought to be 25 October 285 and is remembered for the Battle of Agincourt fought on that day in 1415 and made famous by the St. Crispin’s Day Speech in Shakespeare’s Henry V.
Saint Crispin’s prices off the shelf begin around Euro 1400. Special orders and full bespoke rather more.
Scottish and Irish Ghillies, derived from simple ancestral footwear, have evolved into shoes of more modern construction, often worn with traditional costume for ceremonial wear and for Highland country dancing. Originally ghillies were made of soft leathers and easily distinguished from other shoes by the use of loops in the leather in place of eyelets, with laces criss-crossing across the vamp. Ghillie Brogues, another variation, generally have no tongue. In modern parlance, the term ghillie has come to encompass any shoe laced through loops projecting over the tongue or top of the foot, as in the case of the present example. With its elongated line, this elegant quotation is a fanciful and stylish departure from the original rough footwear of the Scottish Highlands.
Size Details:Bespoke, thus unmarked for size but by my practiced measurements: UK 8.5E...…US 9.5 E......Continental 42.5D, for the medium width foot. 2D, for the mid-width foot.
All original and very lightly worn. Near new. Sold without trees.