Grenson
Gray
Brogued Cap-Toe Oxford
Euro 360

The shoes shown here are a finely-made GRAY full grain calfskin classic cap-toe oxford, a charming departure from the usual black and brown with which we are presented. Think of the clothes these calssic would complement; the combineyions are limited only by our imagination.

In continuous operation since its founding by William Green in 1866, Grenson is one of the oldest and best English shoemakers with a long tradition of catering to the military and one of my favourite contemporary bootmakers. Grenson is one of the few shoemakers, perhaps unique in modern times, who have actually improved their quality in modern times, even as the quality of other shoemakers, even the most famous shoemakers, has visibly declined. Notably are Church’s new and inferior “Prima Class”, and many of Lobb’s ready-mades. Yes, John Lobb, who appear to have a “youth complex”, producing new lightweight models that they imagine to be “modern” and “fashion-forward”, but are really only an embarrassment. In contrast, Grenson’s boots and shoes are all uncompromisingly well made, the designs absolutely traditional, and do not resort to any extraneous decoration or misguided flights of fancy. Indeed Grenson, particularly in their boots, Jodhpurs, Field Boots and Chukka Boots, has become one of my personal favorites.

A bit of history: Grenson is fondly remembered for its development during the war of a uniquely fashioned flyers boot with a fully lined and detachable leg with commando knife. In the event of being shot down the airman could remove the leg portion, leaving behind a simple black shoe to more easily blend into the population and evade captors. Now all he had to do was learn German overnight. Failing that, he had his commando knife, a romantic foil for the Wehrmacht’s Maschinenpistolen.