Shell Cordovan Plain Toe Derby
by the eminent American Shoemaker
Hanover
L. B. Shepard Signatures Series
Circa 1980
Euro 440

Out of the over 200 American Shoemakers clustered around New England at the start of the 20 Century, only a handful remain, among them Bostonian, Cole-Haan, J &M and, here in Europe, the better known Alden and Allen-Edmonds. The great Florsheim and Bostonian exist today as marketing firms, the bulk of their wares being produced off-shore. Lamentable. Hanover too is reduced to producing inexpensive machine made products, a far cry from the excellent hand-finished shoes for which they were once known and of which the present shoe is a prime example.

The Hanover Derby in this listing, dating from the late-1970 or early 1980, appears to have been produced in the custom workrooms of this once great shoemaker. Hanover, like Florsheim, Cordwainer, Nunn-Bush and others, produced more than one price and quality level of product, in some cases even taking orders for custom shoes, extremely desirable rarities today. This pair, from their top “L. B. Sheppard Signature Series”, although marked for size, appears to be on that custom level, utilizing the finest Horween (Chicago) Cordovan leather and Goodyear welted (of course) and with additional 360 degree Storm Welt (Split Reverse Welt). This is a marvelous classic model in the old tradition of workmanship, a handsome and extremely durable shoe, equal to the great Florsheim Imperials and superior, in my view, to the contemporary Alden or Allen Edmonds cordovans of today.