Shell Cordovan
Full Wing-Top Derby Brogue
by the eminent American Shoemaker
Hanover
“Masterflex”
Circa 1980
Euro 370

People wonder what all the fuss is about shell cordovan; this shoe answers that question perfectly: depth of colour, warmth of tone, rich patina, in short unmistakable quality.

Out of the over 200 American Shoemakers clustered around New England at the start of the 20 Century, only a handful remain, among them Bostonian, Cole-Haan, J &M and, here in Europe, the better known Alden and Allen-Edmonds. The great Florsheim and Bostonian exist today as marketing firms, the bulk of their wares being produced off-shore. Lamentable. Hanover too is reduced to a mere marketing firm, its offerings a far cry from the excellent hand-finished shoes for which they were once known and of which the present shoe is a splendid example.
The Hanover Full Brogue shown here, their top-line “Masterflex” line, dating from the late-1970 or early 1980, appears to have been produced in the custom workrooms of this once great shoemaker. Hanover, like Florsheim, Cordwainer, Nunn-Bush and others, produced more than one price and quality level of product, in some cases even taking orders for custom shoes, extremely desirable rarities today. This pair, although marked for size, appears to be on that custom level, utilizing the finest Horween (Chicago) Cordovan leather and Goodyear welted (of course) with additional “split reverse welt, the so-called “storm welt”. This is a marvelous classic model in the old tradition of workmanship, a handsome and extremely durable shoe, equal to the great Florsheim Imperials and superior, in my view, to the contemporary Alden or Allen Edmonds cordovans in the 7-800 Euro category.